The Southern Mountain Trail - Guam

(Atop the Akina soil hills of southern Guam, looking southeast towards Coco’s Island)

The Hills in Heaven are Red

My palms were sweaty, knees weak, arms so heavy, but the view from the top of the mountains was worth the struggle.

Guam’s Southern Mountain Ridge Trail is one of the most difficult hikes on the island due to its length, difficulty to navigate, and technical challenges. It’s the kind of trail you take if you want to dedicate an entire day to be in nature and avoid seeing another human being for several hours. On an island with 170,000 people, solitude is a rare commodity. But for those willing to pay the steep, and often muddy, price, you’ll be able to find what you’re looking for in the mountain heights.

I had the option of starting my journey at either the Cetti Bay Overlook or the Mount Schroeder trailhead. Being familiar with Cetti Bay, I chose the former and parked my car by the orange and black mural on the right side of Route 2.

(One of the 14 “stations of the cross.” Once a year, Catholic observants climb the hill and stop at each station for a series of prayers)

My first task was to ascend Mt Jumullong, the cross laden peak often mistaken for Mount Lamlam. The trail was well worn, thanks to its popularity and the soles of the Catholic faithful who make a trip to the summit each year to erect a wooden cross.

(Mount Jumullong’s wooden crosses line the hilltop under cloud covered skies)

I reached the top and looked over my shoulder to catch a glimpse of Cetti Bay’s sleepy blue waters 1,000 feet beneath me. Thankful that much of the trail’s elevation was behind me, I stopped to watch a monarch butterfly ride the wind from one wildflower to another.

(A monarch butterfly takes a sip of nectar from a wildflower on Mt. Jumullong’s summit)

Passing under the shadow of the Tricentennial cross, I walked by a line of wooden crucifixes, each in a unique state of decay, and searched for a trail less travelled by. On the back side of the mountain there was a hardly visible path that continued down the saddle of the slope between Jumullong and its sister peak. I could see the path meandering along the spine of the mountains far into the distance. My direction was clear enough, but an enclosure of 8 foot high sword grass covered the initial portion of the path and served as an intimidating gatekeeper to what lay beyond.

(Trekking through head-high sword grass with Mount Schroeder on the horizon)

Plunging into the darkness of the oppressive overgrowth, I received a variety of paper thin slices on my hands, face, and legs from the deceptively sharp grass. When the landscape determined I was sufficiently diced, the sword grass gave way to grass of a more friendly species and the narrow trail widened onto red dirt plateau.

(Descending the back side of Jumullong after traversing the sword grass)

I was fully expecting to bake under the afternoon sun, but clouds rolled in and a strong wind pushed against the mountain’s eastern face. I knew I wouldn’t be able to finish the entire trail that day, but I wanted to reach the midpoint between Jumullong and Schroeder to see the landscape before doubling back to my car. I kept a steady pace across the plateau until it rose again to the topmost point of another slope.

(An impressive 6ft tall stone balancing act left by previous hikers)

When driving south to Umatac along Route 2 its impossible to miss the mountains on your left hand side. They are truly one of island’s great natural landmarks. One of the treats of the mountain trail is the unique perspective it offers. Instead of looking up at the mountains from the road, it allows you to look down at the road from the mountains. It was a new and refreshing perspective.

As I approached my target location, I realized the new perspective was really the gem of the trail. The Southern Mountain Ridge Trail doesn’t have caves, waterfalls, or many of the striking features found on the more popular hikes. But it allows you to see the island from a new vantage point.

(Route 2 as seen from the back side of Mount Jumullong, Mount Schroeder on left horizon, and Coco’s island off the Southeast coast of Guam)

You’ll be so high up you’ll see the features of the sky reflected in the ocean, you’ll see Fouha Rock dwarfed like a tiny pebble off the coast, you’ll have to squint to see the blue and red outline of the Umatac bridge, and there is something sobering about seeing just how small the tiny cars are as the motor along the road to their destinations.

It doesn’t matter who we are, we all need to see things from a new perspective from time-to-time. It keeps us grounded, keeps us humble, and keeps us in awe of our incredible island.